Exit pursued by.. Maria Grazia Chiuri. 400 years of Shakespeare was celebrated at Maison Valentino this evening as the show opened with music from Prokofiev’s ‘Romeo and Juliet’ - the same music that nowadays is more commonly associated with Lord Alan Sugar’s, The Apprentice. During the second half of the show, a music change was instigated by the silky voice of Leonardo Dicaprio in Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo + Juliet, followed by an instrumental version of the film’s theme tune, ‘Kissing you’ by Des’ree. Whilst Shakespearean aspects were reflected throughout the collection, the story of Romeo and Juliet seemed more present than any other of the famous plays. This was not only apparent in the music choices, but in the bold reds connoting both love and blood. A symbolic play for the changes that await Valentino as this collection will be the last developed under the creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli as a duo.
Although we await final confirmation - expected this Friday - it was released last week that our so beloved creative duo are to be split, and Maria Grazia to be moved to Dior; filling the large boots of Raf Simons. Whilst we may be excited to see how Dior twists and changes, we cannot help but feel a little sadness after witnessing the last of the pair’s collections together.
From a personal point of view, over the past few years Valentino has become the label I most anticipate on the couture week schedule. It is, in my opinion, the most worthy fashion house of a luxury status. The intricacy of the designs and their abilities to cut you off from the outside world, create a magic that surrounds Valentino. Whether the clothes throw you into greek mythology, the Garden of Eden, or even a Shakespearean romance, their powers to transport never disappoint.
This evening, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s last collection for Valentino featured femininity in all its forms. A dress in pink chiffon and tulle titled ‘Grazia’ echoed feelings of gentleness and flirtation - a gown suitable for feature in A Midsummer Night’s Dream. In contrast, the image of a powerful Elizabethan woman was painted in masculine shapes and daunting black boots that loomed underneath delicate chiffon. Each side of the female persona was shown, including lust and sex appeal that was exuded from sheer bodices and glittering, body hugging, gowns.
I have no doubt that Maria Grazia will do very well at Dior, but for now, let us remember the art she and Pierpaolo brought us at Valentino, as one of the greatest duos in fashion’s history.
Images from VogueRunway.com
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